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The climbing shoe with quick release and microfibre wrap-around sock is just right for all those who like to climb vertical walls. Especially when smearing and good grip are the be-all and end-all, the Oasi LV from the Aerial line by Tenaya is a must for climbers and female climbers. The performance shoe was specially developed for vertical routes and is not only precise, but also does not compromise on comfort. The Oasi LV - Low Volume - are the low-volume version and are particularly suitable for climbers with narrow feet. Tenaya is a well-known Spanish climbing shoe manufacturer that counts Alex Megos and Jimmy Webb among its top athletes.
|Materials:||Microfiber and Lycra (vegan)|
|Insole:||2D multilayer Stretchtex|
|Midsole:||GI 1.8 & TST 150 double midsole|
Velcro closure with adjustable webbing. Velcro Draxtor system (patented).
|Outsole:||3.5 mm Vibram xs-grip|
The closure of this shoe is done with two webbing straps that tight different areas of the upper, and they can be adjusted independently. These webbing straps are connected to the Velcro closure. After adjusting the length of the webbing straps according to your own foot, the straps are pulled in one go and the shoe is quickly closed. This closure system is similar to that of the Evolv Stealth and the Solution from La Sportiva, although in the latter the webbing is not adjustable.
Inside, the shoe has a microfibre sock that is comfortable and very snug. However, this sock is also very delicate: after about ten uses, it is frayed at the seams, making the shoe and fit much softer and bulging at the sides.
The Vibram XS-grip sole covers the whole shoe, although it is so thin in the central strip that you can say the sole is divided into two parts: toe and heel. So when you bend the shoe, you immediately feel the softness in the middle.
The thin midsole is not able to support the climber's entire weight. But if you choose the shoes tight for your feet, then they are really precise even on small footholds.
The TENAYA OASIS LV is a slim shoe which reminds the Scarpa Drago. However, it is also comfortable for people with wide feet. The shape is averagely asymmetrical to the inside of the foot and offers the right compromise between precision and comfort.
The heel area is soft, thin and sensitive; the upper closure puts good tension on the heel, When climbing you are very able to do powerful and precise heel-hooks.
On the other side, there is not much rubber in the toe box to allow effective toe-hooks.
I tested the shoes during the last winter and summer season. I used these shoes on my home board with 27° and 47° slopes on both wooden and resin holds. Outdoors I tried them on gneiss boulders and porphyry/limestone rocks up to grade 7a.
When climbing indoors, I really struggle with these shoes overhanging walls with rounded, slippery feet. It seems that the toes can't adapt to the shape of the holds to get a good push. The result is that I always lose the grip on plastic, which makes climbing difficult and I am always 'up on my arms'.
On rock, however, the situation changes and I really appreciate the toe box on slightly overhanging ground or on grippy passages. The shoes offer good support for the foot, but are also soft for smearing on the wall. I found them particularly good on vertical or slightly sloping walls.
On boulders, I found them difficult for "powerful" sit starts, but sensitive on slopers and mantle-up. Hooking with the toes is not easy, although the fairly straight shape should help in this situation. However, I had a good feeling on the heels, with the heel always anchored to the foot and the rock.
It should be noted that the inner lycra sock ripped at the side seams right after the first few uses. This makes the upper less tight. You have to pull much the Velcro "button" to tight the shoe on your foot.
I didn't get a chance to try the shoes on in the shop, so I chosed the size after talking to friends who use other Tenaya climbing shoe models. I ordered the Oasis LV shoes one size smaller than my foot size. Initially the shoe felt right, but then it quickly loosened and now it is eventoo comfortable.
It would have been better to take at least one and a half to two sizes smaller. Aftersuffering a little more at the beginning, then I would have had a more precise shoe even after many climbing days.
The Tenaya Oasi LV climbing shoes are recommended for those who prefer to climb with the rope on vertical or sloping walls. On these walls, the shoes can reach their full potential without losing comfort and sensitivity.
Because of their soft fit, I recommend them for both experienced climbers and beginners. I do not recommend them for indoor use, on plastic or wooden holds.