The sportswear industry is facing challenges. Despite the high pressure that companies and retailers are currently feeling with regard to meeting sustainability promises, supply chain problems and rising prices, they must remain fit for the future. Find out how they can meet these challenges and what new concepts the future holds here.
Despite the many benefits of the circular economy in the sports industry, there are still many challenges to overcome. For example, it can be difficult to achieve the level of efficiency and innovation required to create truly closed loop systems, and there is often a lack of collaboration and coordination between the various players in the industry. In addition, it is important to use circular economy not only as a greenwashing method to make products more attractive. At its best, it is both a business model and a marketing tool. Companies like Bergzeit, Sneaker Rescue, Yonderland or SOEX live for Sustainability. It's no longer just about closing a loop, but changing the loop, expanding the loop, and extending the lifecycle of products.
It's also important to take consumers along for the ride. "On the one hand, we want to educate and sensitize customers to take care of their products and look after them. Furthermore, we want to manufacture products that can be repaired if they do break," says Melanie Grünwald, Head of Sustainability at Yonderland.
Will there be a point at which we can say that the Circularity project is complete? Walter Thomsen, CEO of SOEX has a clear opinion on this: "No, we're only at the beginning, there's no end to it, it will hopefully be the new normal." It is particularly important that large companies take up the topic and set an example for the future. Then Circularity could find a place in at least 30% of the textile industry by 2030. Currently, too little attention is paid to the topic: "We haven't even scratched the surface of circularity yet," says Melanie Grünwald.
In addition to the pure core business, companies will have to focus on other business models in the future and build these up alongside the core business. For example, a brand can move from being a pure reseller to a service provider in order to bring circular solutions to the market. But companies should think much further. There are numerous approaches and concepts that not only take the topic of circular economy and sustainability further and make it fit for the future. The common thread running through numerous concepts is modularity and adaptability.
The participants of the ISPO Academy Masterclass proved just how much creativity is possible here. Under the motto "Another tomorrow: Driving the evolution of sports apparel & equipment", design students presented innovative ideas and concepts that they had developed in a workshop.
Connecting through clothes
Old to gold. That is the motto of this concept. A well-known hurdle of the activewear industry is excessive consumption and production. But this problem cannot be solved by only one person. This idea envisages joining forces and working together for this purpose. By means of a platform where clothes can be shared, a community is created and people and clothes are brought together.
Back to the future
Many clothes often remain in the closet almost unworn or are thrown away. This concept wants to revive the value of clothes and give them a 2nd life. This is made possible by convertible clothing that gives the garment more than just a use. What does that look like? A jacket that turns into a shopping bag or a coat that can also be used as a hammock show what the future could look like. Particular attention is also paid to a regenerative life cycle: Garments are collected, the design is created with additional functions, design and collected garments are combined and the new product is brought to life. At the end of its life, the material is to be reused.
Outdoor Living Room
A trip to the great outdoors can be beautiful, but too much gear can ruin that. With this concept, that's a thing of the past: this design features clothing so adaptable that it can even be turned into a sofa. Folded flat, an inflatable sofa can be found in the back of the jacket. Also here is a feature on top that is a joy to use. The USB Charger. The design is meant to bring back the value and appreciation for clothing.
The future of bespoke
This concept shows: The future is inclusive. A system for maximum inclusion and customization. Especially for Paralympic athletes, there is a high demand for customization due to the variety of disabilities. The basis of the process is an individual body scan. The product is then designed together with the customer to create a garment that meets the customer's needs. 3D knitting allows for waste-free, seamless, time- and cost-efficient production.
Many companies are taking a new approach to business that goes beyond just making a profit, instead aiming to make a positive impact on society and the environment. The sport & outdoor industry is no exception. Brands in this space recognise the importance of social and environmental responsibility, along with an inherent duty to protect our playgrounds. The consequences of inaction and the price we’ll pay as an industry is self-evident.
Conscious consumerism is unstoppable. Whether it be latest product claims, company culture or marketing campaigns, we are seeing target audiences as a whole increasingly hold brands accountable. As a result your brand should be more than just a business; it should be a force for good.
Your brand purpose should define everything that your company does. Your values should be widely understood internally and externally. We call this brand transcendence.
Many great brands in our industry are demonstrating their intent to do good, both by driving positive change and embracing brand transcendence. Here are a few that we think are doing an exceptional job in 2023:
These brands demonstrate that it is possible to make a positive impact on society and the environment, while running a successful business. By making sustainability and social responsibility a core part of their brand identity, they are creating a better world for everyone. If brands can individually move the dial (even fractionally) in the right direction towards a more positive future, the combined benefits will have a far greater impact.
As an industry, we must be the change we want to see and collectively work towards common goals. Perfection is the number one enemy to action, so try and not let it get in the way of doing the right thing.
Circular economy, plastic-free products, sustainable innovations and the protection of oceans and other waters are among the most important topics in the outdoor industry. And they all revolve around one core issue: the handling of plastics.
From the Mariana Trench in the Western Pacific to Mount Everest - microplastics are everywhere. It comes mainly from industrial waste, disposable products and packaging that can break down into small pieces. Trillions of particles float in the world's oceans, larger portions of them in a growing carpet of plastic that wafts across the ocean.
About two thirds of all textiles are made from synthetic, petroleum-based polyester, polyamide and acrylic. According to Ademe (French Agency for Ecological Change), 60.5 million tons of new polyester were produced worldwide in 2021, releasing 240,000 tons of microplastic particles into the environment. Fiber fragments are increasingly attacking biodiversity and public health. Exemplary players in the textile industry are therefore taking concrete action to improve the situation.
"Fiber fragments pose potentially high, and in some cases still unknown, risks to the environment, animals and humans. Industry players need to develop testing methods, provide accurate data, and adopt credible industry guidance to implement remediation strategies and deploy safe technical solutions in the field." Holly Syrett, Impact Programs & Sustainability Director, Global Fashion Agenda
From 2024, fashion or eco-labeling will be compulsory in France and could soon apply to the whole of Europe. Via a QR code, which must be affixed both to the labels of the garments and to the labeling of the points of sale, information on the release risk of microfibers, hazardous product components and the assessment of recyclability can be viewed - a first step towards more transparency.
How certifications are transforming the textile and outdoor industry
Water pollution from plastic waste and microplastics is complex and multidimensional. Microplastics are defined by UNEP (United Nations Environment Protection) and ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) as small plastic fragments measuring five millimeters or less. Nanofibers are one-dimensional, fibrous materials with diameters in the range of 10 to 100 nanometers. However, it applies to more than one plastic and its fiber size. Even though the term "microfiber" is often used to describe a thread made from a synthetic source, such as polyester, the term microfiber applies to both synthetic and natural fibers. Sophie Mather, co-founder of the Microfiber Consortium, comments: "There is a different understanding of these terms. The Microfibre Consortium does not specify the size or type in this context. To avoid this confusion, fiber fragment or fiber fragmentation is the preferred terminology."
It is not only the microplastics themselves that cause problems. Often the fiber fragments still carry chemical residues from dyeing or impregnation, which even in the case of natural fibers complicate or prevent biodegradability and in the worst case have a toxic effect. According to the Paris Good Fashion Movement. "microfiber shedding occurs at almost every stage of a garment's life cycle and causes harm to people and the environment."
This means that with each wash and even with each wear the fabrics are involuntarily worn out. The losses depend on various parameters and conditions. There are three main phases: Production, use and end of life. The origin of the fabric, the manufacturing practices, the dyeing process and the water treatment determine the quality of the fabric and therefore the life of the garment. The type and frequency of washing, both upfront in the industry and later in the home, also have an impact.
Microplastics are even produced during the processing of recycled fibers. The amount depends, among other things, on the temperatures, the recycling process (chemical, mechanical or physical) or the water supply. So even with recycled fabrics, proper handling from production to end-of-life is important if you want to reduce microfiber losses. In most cases, chemical recycling processes provide better fabric quality.
Greenwashing - how deceptive sustainability becomes a problem
Unfortunately, even materials from a different use, e.g. yarns from PET bottles or blended fabrics, are not an endless source for recycling. Blends of synthetic and natural materials are also difficult to recycle again. Their disposal is not yet adequately regulated. They often end up as fuels. So even a closed-loop economy cannot prevent fiber fragmentation. At best, a closed-loop system helps to reduce dependence on petroleum-based materials.
Microplastics: How textiles endanger the environment and what we can do about it
There are ways to counteract fiber loss. Some consortia and institutions are supporting the textile and outdoor industry: "Investigating ways to reduce microfiber pollution in the fashion industry using innovations in textile design and production" is the subtitle of From the Future 's latest report on microfiber pollution.
"There is no sustainable textile product without a sustainable textile business model" Joan Marc Simon, director and founder of zero waste europe
A step in the right direction would be, for example, the development of a joint roadmap and a continuous, scientifically based study with the Microfibre Consortium. Optimizations would be possible in materials and yarns as well as in manufacturing processes, such as
All of these alternatives are worth considering with a systemic and holistic approach, science-based goal setting, and LCA (life cycle analysis).
The future is now: circular economy on the rise
Another milestone of the transformation is to fill the narrative of change with life. Some brands are already very active in this regard. In 2020, Georgia Parker, Fashion for good Innovation Manager, revealed, "67 companies say sustainable sourcing is a priority for them." The pace of innovation has accelerated, spurred by a shift in price and issue awareness, as well as the removal of barriers to accessing project finance.
Adidas™, for example, plans to completely eliminate the use of pure polyester by 2024. The Patagonia™ brand, known for its climate sensitivity, has similar goals for 2025. In collaboration with the Microfibre Consortium, Adidas stated, "The challenge of fiber fragmentation can only be addressed if our industry comes together and works on solutions."
Another decisive factor: Good ideas must be made popular. Respect Ocean therefore honors the best innovations separately, for example with the "Special Award for the Conservation of Marine Biodiversity," the "Special Award for Bioinspired Solutions" or the "Special Award for Early Stage Solutions."
One example: the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel has developed a process for separating microplastic fibers. Accusweep™ from KHrita is suitable for treating textile wastewater, among other applications. The system uses an acoustic manipulation technique to separate microplastic fibers in water.
In addition to a common understanding of the problem, brands, producers and suppliers also hope for help from legislation. In February 2023, a number of NGOs (Surf Rider, Rethink Plastic, etc.) sent a letter to the REACH Committee (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals) of the European Union for this reason. Their request: a restriction of micro- and nanoplastics in all non-essential uses.
According to a report by the Economist Impact think tank and the Nippon Foundation, which recently launched the ocean conservation initiative Back to Blue, "Annual global plastic production in G20 countries could rise to 451 million tons by 2050 at current growth rates."
Across the ocean, in Copenhagen, the Global Fashion Agenda proclaims that the fashion industry can lead the transition to a circular system while safely or even increasing its value creation by
However, the measures described show: overproduction must be tackled, especially in (ultra) fast fashion models. This is because the problem of microfibers cannot be solved by recycling or circular flows alone. Only a combination of many measures can provide a remedy. And all those involved must pull together, on one fiber.
Subscribe to our newsletters to stay up to date and don't miss the interview with Sophie Mather, co-founder of the Microfibre Consortium™.
KPI: With new key figures for sustainable OutDoor sourcing
Less and less natural snow, more and more snow cannons, and yet more and more ski lifts: Winter sports are booming - despite more difficult conditions and a climate change that wants everything but winter sports. It's getting hotter on Earth, even in ski resorts. Techniques and methods to cool the earth exist. Climate or geoengineering is one of them. But will this really protect us from the big meltdown in the mountains? And what does it mean for ski tourism? ISPO.com takes a look at the big trend geoengineering.
Everything you need to know about geo- or climate engineering:
Climate change is not really that tangible for most people. It's more of a diffuse, subjective feeling. Somehow it is warmer. Somehow there is less snow. Environmental experts, however, know that yes, there are significant changes. According to the Bavarian State Office for the Environment, precipitation has decreased by 13 percent in the summer months from June to August. On the other hand, heavy rainfall is more frequent in the spring. The weather is an indicator of climate change. We can all observe it, right on our doorstep. In winter, too.
For skiers, climate change is no longer yesterday's news. The current winter was not the first to reveal the dilemma facing ski tourism. In some ski resorts, puny white slopes wind their way across brown pastures. Natural snow? No chance. The lack of snow no longer only affects the low mountain ranges and the foothills of the Alps. A 30-year comparison shows: in 2023, there is clearly too little snow in the Alps. Only about 55 percent of the Alps have a more or less closed snow cover. For years now, people in the Alps have been taking various measures to counteract what is happening faster and faster. According to estimates, around 82,000 snow cannons provide "snow security" throughout the Alps. The number has doubled since 2016. The amount of water needed for skiing fun alone is massive. Four times more than the megacity of Munich consumes in a year. Many snowmaking systems have to be moved further and further up the mountain so that the effect doesn't fizzle out after a few days.
But even high up on the mountain, the air has become thin. On the Rettenbachferner in the Ötztal Alps, piste operators start snowfarming as early as May. At an altitude of 3,000 meters, huge amounts of snow are pushed together and protected from melting away with special tarps. Up to 70 percent can thus be preserved until the start of the season. And they have to, because tourism is of great importance to the Austrian economy. According to the Austrian Federal Economic Chamber, winter sports alone generated 14.9 billion euros in sales before the Corona pandemic. Winter sports bring money into the coffers, both in the Alps and in the low mountain ranges.
Snow management" by means of snow groomers and snow-making equipment can still keep ski tourism going. However, it is also clear that enormous amounts of energy are required for this. Resources that should actually be conserved in order not to exacerbate climate change even further. At the moment, global efforts to radically reduce greenhouse gas emissions are not where they should be.
If too little continues to be done, then temperatures in the Alps could rise by up to 4 degrees Celsius by the end of the century. The consequences for ski tourism would be dramatic. Below 500 meters there would be no more natural snow, up to 1,500 meters the snow cover would decrease by up to 80 percent, at higher altitudes by up to 60 percent.
That's where geoengineering comes in. Climate engineering has been dealing for several decades with the question of how the earth's climate system could be deliberately influenced by technical measures. The big question is: What part can climate and geoengineering play in reducing CO2-concentration in the atmosphere and the associated global warming? In the end, is it possibly just a catch fence when the runway runs out? Or will it even trigger an entirely different avalanche?
Italian physicist Cesare Marchetti was instrumental in coining the term geoengineering in the 1970s. His proposal was to prevent harmful carbon dioxide from entering the atmosphere in the first place by collecting it directly at coal-fired power plants and oil refineries and then storing it permanently. This is just one method of Carbon Dioxide Removal (CDR). Norway and Denmark have already started doing just that. The collected CO2 is liquefied and injected deep below the seabed in the North Sea. That's where it's supposed to stay. Hopefully! Because there is a risk that it could escape again. Potential damage to ecosystems? Unknown.
In Germany, the CDR process has not yet been approved. However, the topic itself is already part of the policy. This is because CDR is considered an effective method that can complement the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions. However, the front runner is afforestation. It still has the largest share of total CDR measures at 99.9%. This is because trees store CO2. At LMU Munich, Dr. Havermann coordinates the scientific summary of the CDRterra research program, which is supported by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. "All CDR measures must be socially accepted, politically desired and ecologically and economically sensible," is Havermann's stance. And that's where reforestation also reaches its limits. "As things stand, we would have to double the current reforestation. That's a lot of pressure to put on the land surface. That's where conflicting goals will arise," Havermann says.
The breakthrough in thinking about how technical means could be used to intervene in the earth's geochemical cycles came, incidentally, from a volcanic eruption in 1991. Pinatubo erupted in the Philippines. At the time, it claimed the lives of 875 people, and tens of thousands lost their homes. The eruption was so powerful that several million tons of sulfur dioxide were released into the stratosphere, three times as high as commercial airliners fly. And then, after a few days, a remarkable phenomenon occurred. Due to the suddenly high concentration of sulfur aerosols and the reduction of sunlight as a result, the entire Earth became 0.5 degrees Celsius cooler.
This event led to the idea of having airplanes inject sulfur particles into the stratosphere on a large scale. The bad news: To cool the planet down one degree Celsius a year, you would need 7,000 airplanes a day. Not technically impossible. But extremely expensive, not only materially, but also for all people. In the future, the sky would no longer be bright blue, but rather milky. Worldwide, precipitation could decrease on average, and the monsoon and major air currents in the atmosphere could also change as a result of this experiment. So should we really play environmental god?
There is no shortage of other ideas for what could be possible in Wonderland Earth. Cloud ships could also provide cooling for the planet. They would generate white clouds around the clock by means of seawater in order to increase the Earth's reflective capacity. Again - isn't this perhaps setting off a completely different unintended chain reaction? Precipitation could decrease, entire harvests could fail. This could then end in political, social and warlike conflicts. There is currently no clear legitimization of such measures in international law either. Who regulates global temperature? Very many open questions, even more risks. That is why even the United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change advises against methods that alter solar radiation.
So is the price we would pay with geo and climate engineering too high? Possibly. Is it still worth thinking about geoengineering? Yes.
And what about ski tourism? Doesn't every skier already have a bad ecological balance? Shouldn't skiing per se be questioned in favor of the climate? Ulrike Pröbstl-Haider, Professor of Landscape Development, Leisure and Tourism at the University of Natural Resources and Applied Life Sciences in Vienna, says: "Ski tourism is not the problem. The Federal Environment Agency in Austria has calculated that tourists who board an airplane or a cruise ship have a much worse ecological balance. In contrast, ski tourism is downright saintly." The greatest CO2-footprint that most ski tourists leave in the snow is not on the slopes, but by traveling there by car. Therefore, gentler tourism and the responsible use of it are coming more and more into focus. This applies to operators, as well as to each individual skier. "Everyone should ask themselves the question, does the ski trip have to be on the weekend?" says Dr. Felix Havermann.
There is no answer to the question of whether geo- or climate-engineering can have a lasting impact on ski tourism. Research has only just entered the gondola and is far from reaching the summit. Ultimately, geo- and climate-engineering are comparable to the hangover that hits you after a boisterous après-ski party. You can try to fight the hangover with lots of water, rollmops and counter beer. It would have been better not to let it get that far in the first place. But of course it's not that simple. Doing without is often difficult, but it can pay off. Less is more. Today more than ever.
1. Solar Radiation Management (SRM) aims to reduce incoming solar radiation in order to cool the earth. This is where the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change currently warns against most measures.
2. Carbon Dioxide Removal (CDR) has been instrumental in reducing harmful CO2-in the eye. It is to be sucked out of the air or removed from the atmosphere in order to store it permanently. Here, even the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change is of the opinion that in the context of net-zero greenhouse gas emission targets, it will ultimately not be possible to achieve CO2-removal.
Some methods intervene massively in the climate cycles of nature. The consequences and effects are still partly unclear, little researched and exist only in simulation models. Therefore, in addition to intended positive effects, there are also unintended negative effects.
Advantages:
Disadvantages:
Companies like Patagonia and Allbirds are leading the way: They are B Corp™ certified. And in doing so, they show that they are living their values to protect our resources. But what makes B Corp certification inclusive and sustainable for outdoor brands? Insights from Aude Penouty, trained as Bleaders from Blab™ France.
Sports and outdoor clothing companies have always shown themselves to be pioneers. They show a close connection to environmental protection and purpose-driven production. In an increasingly competitive industry, B Corp certification is definitely a strategic differentiation tool that combines authenticity and operational management. Some of the key players in the outdoor industry are Brand Voices and most of them are B Corp members. So could the B Corp movement change the way we produce textiles? What makes the B Corp certification inclusive and sustainable for outdoor brands?
As an international certification and through a strong network of B leaders and professionals, B Corp certification, when used well, helps to inform and guarantee value to end customers in the global label jungle. In addition, very powerful standards systems already exist at the industry level, so B Corp stimulates producer reliability based on ISO, CPSC and OSHA standards. An independent auditor monitors application and renewal. To achieve B Corp certification, companies must meet specific performance criteria related to social, environmental and governance impacts, aligned with the characteristics of their operations in the following categories: Environment, Community, Workers, Governance, Customers.
The previous B Corp certification was sometimes criticized in terms of inclusivity, consideration of labor and living wages, brand acceptance, calculation method and metrics for passing the test, and the length of the process. It was necessary to rethink the way impact is measured and certification is awarded to compensate for differences in images, product families, and commitment among certified companies. This is what the B Lab Europe teams and the B-Leaders, of which I am one, have been working on during the consultation period. Impact, clarity, and alignment are the new cornerstones for the development of B Corp certification, and it is about defining a new motto: Performance, Commitment and Transparency.
The 2024 version of B Corp is inspired by Kate Raworth (Doughnut Economics) with requirements for management impact and influence. These should lead to a more focused and efficient response to the urgency of international environmental and social issues. An equally important component: clarity to better explain what a B Corp-certified company is, and to show that there are as many ways to be a B Corp as there are companies. Further: Adaptation, showing that flexibility is needed to adapt to circumstances in terms of employment, companies and industries. And also to accompany the needs and expectations of stakeholders. The actual point system will probably continue, but it could have a different breakdown depending on whether there are more or less than ten points in the chosen IBM (Impact Business Model), with the commitment to set improvement targets for that particular IBM.
As any system can be improved, especially in certification, a V7 of the specification is currently being revised. It's final practical application is planned for 2024. As an evolutionary and systemic certification, B Corp is bringing in a new scope of ten evaluation criteria. In doing so, V7 introduces some new, non-negotiable expectations for BIA (Business Impact Analysis). These are more in line with the outdoor and sportswear industry and include defining the mission or raison d'être to emphasize impact solutions research and stakeholder engagement.
Ethics and anti-corruption are also included to highlight preventative practices within the business and value chain. We all remember the fake statistics about organic cotton in the textile industry. Impact management, for example, is also examined - both internal impact management and inclusivity in decision making. Living wages and human rights are also assessed. This applies in particular to brands from Western countries or to companies that produce in countries where the gap between minimum wage and living wage is very wide.
Furthermore, companies must provide information on climate measures within the scope of their activities and the value chain. With regard to circular economy and resource conservation, proof of an environmental management system (EMS) for waste management, energy and water consumption, footprint and biodiversity must be provided.
The focus is also on risk management standards: Additional requirements related to specific material impacts (chemicals, dyes, washes, laminations, all types of finishes) in practice and supply chain management may be required. All these criteria will replace the current B-impact assessment approach, which aims to meet a set of criteria to achieve a minimum score of 80 points.
The B Corp movement aims to put companies' work for the planet and people above profit. To balance the differences in image, product families, and commitment among certified companies, it was necessary to rethink the way impact is measured. This process was implemented by the B Lab Europe teams and the B Leaders, for whom I was trained by B Lab France.
Source: Euratex, Facts and Key Figures/The textile and apparel industry in 2022
To allow access to most companies, the full fee system is divided by company size and services. Even young start-up companies with very little data and less than one year of experience can apply to pending B Corp certification. This allows young entrepreneurs to learn while preparing for full B Corp certification. Although the scoring system is sometimes criticized, it allows very different companies and business models to apply with the goal of improving their impact. Because the B Corp tools and processes provide a systemic, synthetic and operational vision for all, it gives everyone a chance. However: only to a certain extent, as illegal businesses or trades are not allowed to apply, and sensitive areas have to fill in the disclosure questionnaire with strict standards.
Some of the most important players in the outdoor industry are already voice brands and most of them are B Corp members: Patagonia since 2011, Allbirds since 2016, Picture since 2019 and KMD Brands. The certification revision project was overseen by an independent body, the Standards Advisory Board, during a two-year development phase that included internal and external consultations (B Leaders + B Corp) and a public draft. The seventh version of the B Corp assessment focuses on core issues for better impact management in an environmental and social crisis and for efficient pattern execution.
Whether it is validating a direct application to a value chain and corporate governance, or promoting a business that supports companies like the crowdfunding platform Ulule, B Corp benefits from measuring and disclosing the root causes of sustainability with the goal of continuous improvement.
To be as transparent as possible, as trained Bleaders for B Corp, I advocate for a systemic, sustainable approach to business and supply chain management in the textile and outdoor sectors. There are also limitations in B Corp system that can be improved through the new specifications planned for 2024. For example, we may want to see a distinction between brands that only achieve the minimum (80 points) and brands that are much more committed and have a better footprint than others. Given market trends, certification may be the most efficient way to balance strengthening a healthy and innovative supply chain with preventing green hustling.