Ushguli, with its 12th century fortified towers, is a World Heritage Site - despite the towers' dark history, which recalls a tradition that no one wants to see returned to the present. In fact, they served less as a refuge from invading gangs of robbers - but rather from the dear neighbors who lurked at the front door for reasons of blood revenge; often based on bagatelles, sometimes for months, even years. Whole families are said to have barricaded themselves in the towers until a deal was found or, alternatively, another relative was shot. But we do not want to create a false impression: To us travellers, the Georgians and especially the Svanians are an extremely warm, almost shamefully hospitable people. When we want to chat with a family in Mestia about their living conditions, we are welcomed with a small feast in the middle of the afternoon, homemade wine, fruit, pastries. And the lady of the housey, who runs a guesthouse here in Ushguli, which is somewhat exaggerated called a "hotel", serves us up food every evening as if we were heading into the all-decisive battle against the Russians the next day. There is little more satisfying after a day on the mountain than a freshly baked Kubdari, the Svan version of the homemade stuffed bread, which is filled with cheese everywhere else in Georgia as Khachapuri, but here with garlic, cumin, coriander and fennel seed seasoned meat.