With each other instead of against each other, a return to familiar and reliable materials, subtle change - at the ISPO Textrends jury meeting H1/2023, the jury noticed above all that less seems to be more again. Louisa Smith, international textile expert and leading member of the ISPO Textrends jury, explains why the industry is getting back to basics and which textile trends are moving it.
Companies along the entire supply chain have understood that it's not about a race against each other. Rather, the various players are continuously working together, exchanging information and entering into collaborations to create more sustainable products together.
Transparency and responsibility are important factors in this development. But what counts most for the finished product is traceability in all areas of the supply chain - from the sustainability of materials to water conservation to social responsibility in production.
The ISPO Textrends jury meeting wasn't just about the product itself or a heightened sense of sustainability in textile production, but also what the end-of-life of a fabric looks like. According to jury member Giusy Bettoni from CLASS, a question we should ask ourselves more often.
At the jury meeting, many fabrics not only caught the eye visually, but were also convincing in terms of feel: brands seem to have understood that wearing comfort is above all else.
What was striking about the assessment of the substances? That there were no conspicuous features. The developments of the fabrics compared to the last jury meeting were subtle, the messages of the brands were clear and the focus on material and feel was evident.
This is where the direct impact of global instability, rising costs of living, financial roller coaster rides, war and climate change, to name a few factors, can be seen. And so manufacturers have focused on the essentials: great products that are sustainable, promise performance and safety.
This season's products are not flashy, they are subtle, with sporty nuances and interesting but unobtrusive ingredients.
"I've noticed that the mood of the products is a little 'back to basic,' which is not a bad thing. I think the accents are interesting, but we're going back to basics for more calm and security in uncertain times," says brand designer Thomas Håkansson.
"Some of the best products I've seen are mono-materials. One material for everything to achieve the performance needed for sports applications. This is a strong trend," says Braz Costa of CITEVE.
Also catching his eye positively were the messages from the applicants*. "The future belongs to transparency and the fight against greenwashing. The industry needs to find the right moment to achieve economic and global stability," says Braz Costa.
Despite the subtle changes, there were interesting developments, whether biodegradable rubber or a new woven fabric using merino wool in the warp and weft.
Other noticeable innovations included microencapsulated natural ingredients, mineral dyes, the use of waste, such as from the food industry or car tires, and interesting developments in new natural ingredients.
The jury members' demands on the sustainability of the fabrics are high. As the members bring extensive expertise in a wide range of areas of the textile industry, the submissions are put through their paces and lively discussions take place.
For each submission, points are awarded for the various evaluation criteria. But the product as a whole is also considered. Fabric developments must be well thought out and not lead to contradictory results because, for example, a combination of high-quality ingredients is used that are each sustainable in their own right but do not work together.
Kutay Saritosun from bluesign joined the jury as a new member: "It was very interesting. I discovered some materials I had never seen before."
The award-winning products will also be showcased at the ISPO Textrends Forum at OutDoor by ISPO from June 4-6.
How good is the Devold Tuvegga Sport Air Hoodie? Sarah knows. Because she tested it for the Italian sports magazine Mountainreview.it tested it. ISPO.com readers can now also benefit from this. Because we are publishing the tests from Mountainreview.it, which were previously only available in Italian, also in German, English, French, and Spanish.
Mountainreview.it—these are real practical tests by ambitious (hobby) athletes who spend every free minute outdoors. The tests are hands-on and relentlessly honest, by mountain lovers for mountain lovers. The "consumer experts" run, hike, ski or climb and test current equipment for its suitability for the outdoor lifestyle.
All tests are completely independent and reflect the personal opinion of the testers. We take tests of products that have performed well or very well and are also particularly interesting for our readers from the point of view of the ISPO.com editorial team.
The Devold Tuvegga Sport Air Hoodie is a baselayer that Sarah put through its paces in sub-zero temperatures. Find out how the hoodie performed in various practical conditions.
Devold Tuvegga Sport Air Hoodie is a baselayer for intense winter activities, made by the Norwegian company that has specialised in processing wool for over 160 years. This brand focuses on environmental and animal friendliness in production.
Devold's corporate philosophy is characterised by conscious and transparent decisions, with a fully traceable supply chain where it is possible to identify the farm that produced the wool for a particular garment. Devold also pays close attention to animal welfare and has therefore chosen to use "mulesing-free" wool.
Double face
Extended sleeves with thumbholes
3D Wool Mesh Construction
Fine and finely woven
Flatlock seams
I have used the Devold baselayer on numerous ski tours and ice climbs. The baselayer was used in low temperatures between -15° and 5°C. The base layer was put to the test, being used continuously for a week without washing for long and strenuous routes.
I have to say that I was really surprised by the thermal regulation of this garment. I find it difficult to find a garment that you can wear both on long approaches and when climbing icefalls. While the former are very aerobic, and I personally sweat a lot, the latter alternates between moments of intensity and total immobility, where the need for warmth is essential to avoid freezing at the belay!
What impressed me most about this garment is its ability to adapt to body heat. During the aerobic phase I was never excessively hot, and in the moments of complete immobility I was never cold, even though I had sweated a little beforehand.
So without changing clothes, I could use the Devold clothing for both hiking and climbing without getting cold.
The shirt dries very quickly with body heat. So I could keep the garment on even after a long walk without freezing. In the past, I had to carry a spare shirt in my backpack to replace the sweaty shirt after exercise. With the Devold baselayer, I didn't feel the need to change clothes even when I was sweating, because it dries quickly when I put on an extra layer, such as a jacket or down jacket.
The Devold Tuvegga Sport Air Hoodie is made of 99 percent merino wool and 1 percent elastane, which gives the garment its elasticity. Merino wool has numerous properties, one of which is particularly important for sports enthusiasts: it doesn't stink!
After a week, during a ski tour and five ice climbing tours with long and strenuous ascents, the garment did not smell, at most a little like deodorant.
The Devold Tuvegga Sport Air Hoodie can be used on both sides, i.e. you can use it in one direction or the other. If you need more insulation, simply wear the garment with the 3D structure towards the body, this provides more insulation.
On very cold days, when the temperature is below zero, I preferred to wear the jersey with the 3D structure towards the body. This wavy and slightly raised 3D striped structure means that the heat generated by the body in motion circulates better in the air channels, generating more heat for the body.
When the temperature was above zero, and I didn't need any extra warmth, I turned the shirt inside out and used it like a normal baselayer.
Even after several washes at 30-40°C, the garment does not warp and retains its softness and elasticity. I personally prefer non-aggressive detergents, especially for merino wool.
The garment is finely woven at the back, underarms and stomach, while the 3D structure is located on the hood, chest, and arms for added warmth.
The fine and elastic fabric gives a soft and fresh feeling when in contact with the skin. The garment is a little sensitive. Because it is so finely woven, a few small threads may be pulled.
The neckline is very high and can be used as a neck warmer. The hood is a kind of balaclava that can be pulled up in strong winds and allows the head to be completely enveloped and protected, although the fabric is quite thin and the headroom quite small. I personally have never used it, preferring a headband.
The sleeves are long and have 2 holes for inserting the thumbs so that the sleeve does not ride up.
The seams are flat and tight.
The Devold Tuvegga Sport Air jersey has a slim fit and conforms to the female form without compressing the body as is the case with other base layers. The size matches the size chart on the website.
The baselayer is a true all-in-one as it eliminates the need for extra clothing and reduces weight on challenging adventures where even the weight of an extra T-shirt is important.
I recommend the Devold Tuvegga Sport Air Hoodie for all intense winter activities where good insulation and body temperature regulation are important, even in very low temperatures.
The ISPO Academy Masterclass took place for the 7th time during the ISPO Munich 2022 took place. The unique platform is dedicated to supporting young design talent in the sports industry and aims to impart sports-related knowledge for intelligent and innovative product development.
The ISPO Academy Masterclass is aimed at the "designers of tomorrow" in the sports sector and has set itself the goal of bringing a breath of fresh air to the sports industry. Very important: The Masterclass is not a competition. Instead, the focus is on, multidisciplinary thinking, open exchange and collaboration.
In a changing global environment with oversaturated markets and homogeneous product offerings, the Masterclass aims to break conformity with forward-looking approaches. It imparts sports-related knowledge and explores the creative and functional potential of performance wear in the 21st century.
Today's active lifestyle demands new products and versatile apparel. High time to take design for sports and its role as an interface between human needs and technology to a new level.
These were the challenges at ISPO Munich 2022:
In accordance with this leitmotif, under the direction of renowned design expert Nora Kühner, 20 participants from 9 international design schools and universities, including some of the world's leading educational institutions, developed innovative concepts for the future.
What was the question for the workshop in 2022 and what was the basis for it?
From the first edition at ISPO Munich 2016 onward, the overarching topic of the Masterclass has been "Another Tomorrow – the Evolution of Sports Clothing and Equipment. Outdoors. Indoors. Virtual.” Guided by this headline the main focus of each workshop differs – depending on current developments and trends. Living with the challenges of the last three years made very clear that we have to think different. We need to develop new perspectives for a sustainable and responsible future. The workshop in November 2022 focused on questions around the transformation of our sector and our way of life. How do we want to live, work and produce? What kind of products do we need? If we take a look at outdoor jackets for example – whether for mountaineering, hiking or skiing – they all look pretty much the same for more than a decade. Stirring up the question: Do we have achieved the perfect pattern and construction? Of course, this could be an option, however, why do we continue producing ever more of the same and increasing the piles of discarded clothing? Maybe we have a bit of a burnout? Or is it creative stagnation? Are we able to shape new products and take into account changing requirements?
Was there anything at the workshop that particularly surprised you?
For me design is a key discipline when it comes to imagine and visualize bold ideas and narratives. A participant of the Masterclass 2018 put it in a nutshell with his phrase “Design is so much more”. Therefore I am more than happy to see a growing number of design students who reflect their profession in a comprehensive and holistic way. The issues are around work processes and the way we think design. Sustainability has to be on the list in the moment when we start thinking about new product designs. Which materials do we select? Can I use this fabric or that zipper with a clear conscience? Does my selection meet the CSR guidelines of the brand I am working for? How to shape the life cycle of a product? Questions like these require a fundamental change in the product development workflow. And it is amazing to see a majority of aspiring designers already tackling these questions in a creative and constructive way. And for them it goes without saying that the “Education of the Consumer” is a task of both brand and designer, too. Today design goes far beyond sketching out a garment, backpack or ski boot. It is all about new design thinking and the next generation is already living up to it.
Team: Elina Puro, Maria Rossi, Ida Mitiska
Old to gold. That is the motto of this concept. A well-known hurdle of the activewear industry is excessive consumption and production. But this problem cannot be solved by only one person. This idea therefore envisages joining forces and working together for this purpose. By means of a platform where clothes can be shared, a community is created and people and clothes are brought together.
Team: Hannah KaspariBrian Dennerlein, Emma Peer
Many clothes often remain in the closet almost unworn or are thrown away. This concept aims to uplift the value of clothing and give garments a second life. This is made possible by transformable clothing that gives the garment more than just a use. What does that look like? A jacket that transforms into a shopping bag or a coat that can also be used as a hammock show what the future could look like. Particular attention is also paid to a regenerative life cycle: Garments are collected, the design is created with additional functions, design and collected garments are combined and the new product is brought to life. At the end of its life, the material is to be reused.
Team: Trashi Puntso KatagiriWen Hui
In a chaotic world, this team wants to create balance. To do this, they are developing a design bodysuit that transforms into a comfortable suit by morphing and using elastic parts. Burton's Living Lining® technology is used for this. This reacts to body heat and adapts to it. The material accelerates moisture transport when it is hot and retains heat when it is cold. Thus, the suit ensures pleasant comfort throughout the day. A special function: solar panels provide the wearer with energy, for example, to charge the cell phone.
Team: Soh Huey Rhu, Tan Yadan
A trip to the great outdoors can be beautiful, but too much gear can ruin that. With this concept, that's a thing of the past: this design features clothing so adaptable that it can even be turned into a sofa. Folded flat, an inflatable sofa can be found in the back of the jacket. Again, a feature on top that is a joy to behold: the USB charger. This design is meant to bring back the value and appreciation for clothing.
Team: Alice HebrardHannah Cooper, Susanna Suojanen
This concept shows: The future is inclusive. A system for maximum inclusion and customization. Especially for Paralympic athletes, there is a high need for customization due to the variety of different disabilities. The basis of the design process is an individual body scan. The product is then designed together with the athletes to create a garment that meets their needs. 3D knitting allows for waste-free, seamless, and time- and cost-efficient production.
Team: Chalin Hills, Axel Eveque, Katharina Ehe
Looking into the future can be scary, especially in terms of climate change. And the effects are becoming more intense. Heat dystopia, forest fires and drought are forcing people to flee extreme heat. Clothing needs to be modified for this purpose. The solution: a bodysuit and jacket with smoke/dust protection as well as thermoregulating properties. It uses 100% wool as well as discarded tents and parachutes to ensure sustainability. The jacket also features a thermochromatic layer that reacts to heat and thus warns the wearer when temperatures rise. The color scheme is inspired by nature.
Team: Stella Burbidge, Gaia BrogiottiManon Garcia, Eva Kühn
Even the last concept can save lives. Future scenarios show steady climate change and catastrophic water conditions, such as flooding, which destroy landscapes, homes and lives. Especially in areas with low water tables, people live in extreme conditions. Inflatable Suits are designed to protect against this. To do this, an anatomical study was conducted to identify the parts of the body that need the most protection. In these areas, the clothing inflates when released, protecting the wearer. The clothing also has security features such as tracking and personal data. The clothing is made from material extracted from plastic in the ocean. This is recycled and can be returned after use and reused.
We'll let you in on an open secret: women have a fundamentally different anatomy than men. Why do we even need to mention this? Because the sports industry still thinks primarily in male terms. Whether it's clothing or equipment, the role model in many cases is the man. For women, there's the same clothing, only dyed pink. Is that really enough? No! Gender equality doesn't just start with colors, but even earlier. In production, idea and creation. ISPO.com took a look at the sports industry: How well do women fit the sports industry? An inventory that gives hope and hurts.
"Comfort significantly influences performance," Adidas quotes professor Dr. Jason White at the launch of the Adidas SS23 Bra & Leggings collection. Every woman who has ever been looking for a suitable sports bra knows that this is easier said than done. Adidas wants to change that and has teamed up with experts for the collection. Not only was sports consultant Dr. White involved, but so was Professor Joanna Wakefield-Scurr, who leads research on female breast health at Portsmouth University. "Whether you're in amateur or professional sports, a properly fitting sports bra is absolutely essential!" she said. If it doesn't fit properly, it's not only uncomfortable, but more importantly, dangerous. Regardless of the size of the bust, the connective tissue of the female breast is very sensitive. It can even tear due to extreme movements during sports. A good support for the breast is essential.
Apart from suitable underwear such as a bra, the female anatomy results in a variety of special requirements for outerwear during sports. The shorter torso and wider pelvis compared to the male body require completely different cuts in cycling, for example. "The most obvious difference is in the trouser area," says Sandra Waschnewski. "Because women on average have wider ischial tuberosities, the pad must be wider and positioned completely differently than is the case with men's pants. Otherwise it becomes painful." In 2018, Waschnewski founded the Veloine label to launch premium cycling apparel specifically for women. The range also includes a Pregnancy Kit - cycling shorts and jerseys specifically for pregnant women. An absolute novelty and still unique on the market since its launch in 2020. That alone speaks volumes. Why do female needs such as pregnancy receive so little attention in the sports industry?
Wakefield-Scurr is proud that Adidas is bringing more attention to the topic with its new products, says the press release for the new Bra & Leggings collection. Realistically, however, the sporting goods giant is doing less pioneering work than jumping on a promising trend. Because the proportion of women is growing in all sports.
This is not thanks to a sports bra developed together with university professors, but to female entrepreneurs and female role models who use their visibility to empower other women. Especially in social networks, female cyclists, runners, soccer players and women from every other imaginable sport band together to share their passion online and offline. The pandemic acted as a catalyst for this development: since the Corona outbreak, the female sports community has been growing rapidly, while also exposing abuses in the industry. Like the fact that the range of products tailored specifically to women is more than clear.
7 inclusive sportswear labels with special sizes
But there are also companies that have long recognized the needs of female athletes and put them first. For example, the internal research team at bicycle manufacturer Ergon proved the need for special women's saddles by means of X-rays and computer tomography and brought them to market. Because women's upper bodies and arms are usually shorter, the frame geometries of mountain bikes and road bikes have also been adapted accordingly.
Deuter is also aware of this anatomical peculiarity and has developed a backpack has developed a backpack collection that is perfectly tailored to the female anatomy with a shorter back and narrower shoulder straps. Female soccer players looking for suitable footwear will find the label IDA which does not have a single item for men in its range. "Women have waited long enough to be prioritized by the sports industry," reasons label founder Laura Youngson.
Ida Sports Football Boots wins ISPO Brandnew Award
LaMunt is one of the first mountain sports brands to design its range specifically for women. During a study, the Oberalp Group, to which LaMunt belongs, found out that women do not want to "conquer" mountains, but rather focus on experiencing nature. In addition to functionality, comfort and fit of sportswear and equipment are high priorities for women. With regard to existing collections, it became apparent where the problems currently lie: Mountain boots and pants are among the items that are least well received by women, mostly because of their fit. LaMunt was born.
Sportswear collections specifically for women are also so important because they give female athletes a choice that unfortunately cannot be taken for granted. Women are still underrepresented in sports - both in the apparel and equipment industry and in the active practice of many (professional) sports. The connection is obvious, because it is primarily women who make the sports industry more feminine.
It's not enough to dye sportswear pink or print it with floral patterns to let women participate in sports. Unisex collections are also only a well-intentioned counter design. While they certainly counter false body ideals, they are still not truly empowering. The female anatomy obviously brings with it special requirements that deserve much more attention - out of social responsibility, but also because the market offers great opportunities.
